Tuesday, 30 June 2015

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Kardashian-style contouring is not a trend born of the catwalk, but rather a result of social-media selfies, Youtube tutorials and a resulting spike in "contouring" products from brands determined to capitalise on one of the most Googled beauty trends in recent years. But what do make-up artists themselves think of the craze, which sees followers using bronzers and highlighters to enhace the structure of the face (with varying degrees of success)? As the catwalk points towards natural, even shiny skin but Instagram selfies remain a wash of mannequin matt faces and sculpted cheekbones, we asked some of the beauty world's biggest names for their opinions: Is contouring your beauty best friend, or your worst enemy?


Bobbi Brown wasn't afraid to make her opinions publicly known at the Vogue Festival in April, when she told TheTradeBoss editor Alexandra Shulman that she "hates" contouring because "it makes you look like you have dirt on your face". Promising never to launch a product designed for contouring as part of the Bobbi Brown brand ("nobody is a good enough make-up artist to make it look good"), the make-up artist later told us that the technique goes against her brand philosophy of natural, beauty-enhancing make-up and instead "suggests that there is something wrong with how you look in the first place".



Certainly there are some rather disastrous examples of the pitfalls of trying out the technique - just search the contouring hashtag on Instagram and you're sure to find some slightly alarming results.

"Contouring is really helpful for make-up artists but it's really a professional tool, not a trend," Laura Mercier told us, firmly. Another pioneer of the "natural beauty" movement, Mercier is best known for products such as her subtle tinted moisturiser, or clever concealer palette rather than bold, statement products, but did develop a Flawless Contouring Palette to meet demands.

"I really was pushed and pushed to bring out a product for contouring by my team and I didn't want to at all at first. I would only do it when I really liked the product, but it was a matter of making it easy to use," she explained. "The colours are very subtle and natural, and there are different ones for different skin, but you do have to know where to put it. Contouring does requires a person who 'gets' it."

That's the thing, if you can do it well then nobody should know that you're contouring at all - it should be your own little secret. Kim Kardashian is rarely seen with a dot of concealer or stray stripe of foundation out of place, but there is no denying - by anyone - that she is wearing a lot of make-up. But then, a selfie posted by the star in March of her half made-up face to demonstrate her contouring make-up tricks (in her words, "Kontouring" make-up tricks) received just short of 700,000 likes, so there's no denying that interest is still enormous.


Pat McGrath, responsible for some of the most memorable catwalk make-up looks of recent years, is the most positive about the topic. A fearless experimenter herself, she says that the key is to perfect the technique before adding it to your beauty arsenal.

"Contouring is something we've been doing backstage for years, so it definitely doesn't feel like a trend. What I do love though is that it's become so accessible to the everyday woman and this latest trend of contouring the face is likely to stay and be as routine as applying mascara," she told us. "Clever contouring can really transform and bring out the best of a woman's features, but it's important to know which elements work best for your own individual features.  Play, experiment, learn, and pick up tips to hone your skills."


Confident that you've honed your skills? As you were. Tempted to try it but not sure how yet? See above and don't leave the house until you've perfected the technique. Sick of the sight of sculpted cheekbones? See Trade guide to embracing fashion's new love affair with shiny skin instead.